Liliana’s Italian Kitchen hasn’t been open a year, but diners know a good thing when they see it

No matter what time you come into Liliana’s Italian Kitchen, you’ll find diners twirling forkfuls of tomato-sauced noodles, folding slices of piping-hot pizza, and devouring meaty sandwiches. You might also see a few people waiting for to-go orders by the deli case or at the takeout window. It’s impressive, considering that Liliana’s remains open between traditional lunch and dinner hours. The Italian-American restaurant hasn’t been open a year, but neighborhood diners know a good thing when they see it.

The 75-seat interior is painted marinara red and decorated with black-and-white photos of the Rat Pack. Empty double magnums of Chianti line a wall that separates the dining room and bar area. Twinkle lights are strung around the windows, and a large chalkboard lists daily specials. Sinatra plays softly in the background.

Like everything served at Liliana’s, starters are generous. Ethereal wisps of fried spinach top the fried calamari. Crispy-skinned chicken wings are coated in a blanket of shaved Parmesan and served with aioli. Bruschetta are laden with goat cheese and bacon and balanced with arugula, roasted red peppers, and balsamic. 

Pastas are old-school classics: meat or eggplant lasagna, cannelloni, beef ravioli. The garlic shrimp rigatoni with roasted red peppers, fried spinach, tender shrimp, and a light cream sauce is particularly noteworthy. The meat-laden sauce on the enormously portioned spaghetti and meatballs adds a satisfying texture and a surprising amount of flavor.

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